Sharks and Cape Town
Cape Town waters are home to one of the ocean’s greatest predators, the great white shark. Luckily, for daring adrenaline junkies, you have the opportunity to explore these waters and come within inches of one of the world’s deadliest creatures via a shark cage diving experience. This day-long excursion can be pricey, costing anywhere from $150-$250, but it is a once in a lifetime opportunity that can only be done in a few parts of the world.
Below is my experience with the sharks from start to finish!
Preparing for Cage Diving
The experience started early in the morning with a 4 a.m wake up call. A minivan that was headed to Gansbaai fishing town was waiting outside my hotel for me. I hopped in tired and cranky but ready to get going.
After what felt like a 10-hour drive, we finally saw the coastal waters from our windows. Before the fun could begin, however, there was an orientation that we had to sit through. Breakfast and tea were served to us as we were briefed on the day ahead. The instructors went over an educational background of great whites as well as crucial cage diving safety tips. With each passing minute, the excitement continued to build within me as I struggled to stay focused on the instructor’s directions.
Just as the orientation seemed to be ending, a bombshell of bad news was dropped onto us. A rare event had occurred a few weeks before our arrival, where whales had killed two great whites and sent most of the sharks fleeing from the area. Our guide informed us that they hadn’t seen a shark in the waters since the incident, and there was a chance we would see none today. My stomach dropped. I grabbed my diving gear and boarded the boat in silence trying to overcome the disappointing news.
Finding Sharks
The boat’s engine began to churn, and despite knowing there was a chance we wouldn’t see any sharks, adrenaline and fear started to kick in again. After about 30 minutes of sailing, the boat stopped at Geyser Rock, which was a spot that sharks were known to do a lot of their feeding (Yikes!). The waiting game began.
I usually do not get seasick, but the waves were choppy in this area. The constant swaying of the docked boat had almost a third of the passengers puking or feeling ill ( I did not help my cause by partying the night before!). The staff were prepared, however, and provided everyone with bags and water to help with the uneasy feeling.
Despite the seasickness, the group was still excited and optimistic as we waited for a shark to come by and help alleviate our discomfort. To bring the sharks near our boat, the staff attempted to use fake fish smells. The hope was that the sharks, who are known for their sense of smell, would approach the boat hungry for a meal. Smells, as opposed to food, was used to avoid disturbing the natural feeding pattern of the sharks.
I sat on the edge of the boat in silence as I watched the staff throw a rope attached to the fake fish. Just one grey fin, that’s all I was hoping for at this point.
Cage Diving!
“Shark!!” yelled a staff member. The mood on the boat changed instantly as chaos and excitement broke. The crew quickly surveyed the group for volunteers to jump in first, and I immediately raised my hand.
Not wanting to waste my opportunity, I scrambled to put on my gear while preparing my Go-Pro. Once I saw the red light on my camera, I jumped into the cold water.
The cage was just deep enough so that you can go underwater but also come up for air when needed. My teeth chattered at a rapid speed as I adjusted to cold temperatures inside the cage. The water was freezing. The staff members alerted us that a shark was coming close, and the adrenaline instantly made me feel warmer. This was it! I took a deep breath and went underwater.
My heart stopped as I saw the body of a great white Shark inches away from me. Its’ large body swam with such force and speed. The cage started rattling as the shark’s tail banged on it a few times. My mind instantly flashed to all the shark movies I had seen in the past. Never did I imagine I would be experiencing this Hollywood kind of scene in real life.
After a few minutes of searching for food, the shark made a circle around the boat. The cage cover was lifted, and the next batch of people jumped in. I couldn’t believe it had happened. I sat again in silence, only this time In awe as I reflected on the fact that I had just come within inches of a great white shark!
Missing the Teeth
Having gotten a taste of the thrill, I wanted more. The crew alerted us that the shark was approaching again, but this time, I was not selected to go into the cage first; Our boat had a lot of people on it, which meant we had to split time in the cage. The new group jumped in as I sat and followed the shark’s fin from the boat. I heard the sounds of screams from the cage and felt frustrated that I had to wait.
The group exited, raving about what they just saw. I later found out that they got to see the inside of the shark’s mouth as it tried to open the cage with its teeth (a rare event). I jumped in for my second turn hoping to see the same, but the shark never returned. Time was up, and my shivering body exited the waters. I left with an empty feeling wondering how cool that visual must have been.
Personal Reaction
I rate my shark cage diving experience as three stars for two main reasons.
- The Luck of the Animals
Most animal experiences require luck, and with cage diving, the luck was not on my side. I did get to see the first shark near Geyser Rock in several weeks, which could be classified as good luck; But on the flip side, the whale attacks drove most of the other sharks away. I left with as semi-empty feeling having only gotten a few glimpses of the one shark that happened to come by. - The Group Size
This one is on me. I booked my experience through my South Africa tour operator Gate-1. I did not ask too many questions about the company I was doing it with and should have done some more research on how many people I would be sharing the cage with. If you plan to book a similar experience, I recommend emailing different companies to ask about boats and group size. I missed seeing the incredible teeth of a great white because our boat had too many people that had to share the cage.
My three-star rating is more a reflection of my personal experience as opposed to criticism of shark cage diving in Cape Town itself. The thrill I had of coming within inches of a shark is hard to describe, and I could only imagine how incredible this experience could be with more sharks around with fewer people to share them with. Despite my rating, I encourage you to do this activity if you are in Cape Town. The adrenaline you feel as you swim face to face with one of the ocean’s deadliest creatures is a feeling you will never forget. With some more luck and a bit of research, this can easily be one of the most memorable experiences in your life.
