What is an Onsen?
The unique geography of Japan and its high levels of volcanic activity create a unique gift for citizens and tourists of this country. That gift is called an onsen! An onsen is a natural spring bath where the water is heated by the molten rock below the earth’s surface. The water is naturally heated and brought back up to the surface, enriched with minerals. These famous baths have been around in Japan for centuries and have been known to cure many ailments and conditions. Healing abilities aside, the baths themselves are best known for their ability to relax the body and mind. If this all sound appealing, the Onsen guide below will tell you all you need to know about this unique experience.
Where to Try One?
Very few authentic onsens are located in cities itself, so trying to squeeze one in your itinerary might be a challenge. I went back and forth on whether to do this bath or not, eventually deciding to lose one of my three days in Tokyo to experience it via a day trip. Hakone is about a 1.5-hour journey from Tokyo and is one of the more popular onsen towns In Japan. I chose Hakone as my destination for this bath for 3 reasons:
- It’s a well known scenic destination which makes the baths that much more enjoyable
- There are other activities to do in this area
- Convenience to get to from Tokyo
If you don’t wish to do one in Hakone, you do have some other options. I found an authentic natural hot spring onsen In Kyoto called Tenzan-no-yu Onsen. With this spot however you lose the scenic part of the bath that you get in a mountain city like Hakone.
You can also go to some more isolated resorts and towns that are very well known for their onsens. Kusatsu is a common one that comes up in research. Visiting towns like this, however, can be a logistical challenge that may require an overnight stay.
After viewing all my options Hakone seemed like the perfect place from a logistic and experience perspective.
Which Onsen?
I can’t compare all the onsens in Hakone or Japan as I only went to a couple on my trip, but I can vouch for Yuryo Onsen. There are many onsens in Hakone but this one is known to be a good option for first-time tourists. The staff speaks great English which is helpful for asking questions or booking a private onsen room. You do not have to be staying at this resort to experience the bath. The public baths themselves are awesome and the outdoor section is beautifully situated in the mountains and surrounded by trees and rocks. Obviously, no pictures are allowed here so you’ll have to trust me on this one!
Yuryo Onsen is open from 10 am to 9 pm almost every day of the year.
Tip Be warned tattoos are not allowed in many onsens. If you have one, either cover it up or find an onsen that allows it.
What Time to Do the Bath?
If you have the choice to do a Onsen during the day or night, I would pick the latter for 3 reasons.
- 1) It’s a much nicer feeling winding down in an onsen after a lot of walking as opposed to starting the day in one.
- Onsen baths are mostly outdoors and I found the feeling of being outside and bathing under the moon to be awesome.
- Most tourist attractions are closed by early evening so this gives you something to do during the evening.
How Much Does it Cost?
Onsens are fairly cheap. The one we did in Hakone cost us about $15 a person and included a towel and locker rental. Most Onsens are around a similar price and the best part is there generally isn’t a time limit. You are free to relax for as long as you’d like!
How Long In Bath?
Do not spend more than 10-15 minutes in any of the heated baths. If you wish to sit longer, sit on the ledge for a bit and give your body a chance to cool off before returning. Sitting for too long under water at these temperatures can cause dehydration and dizziness.
Proper Etiquette
Proper etiquette for most onsens require you to go in fully nude. Before entering your first bath, you must also take a quick shower to rinse off any dirt on the body. If you have any tattoos, you may be denied entry or asked to cover them up. Tattoos are frowned upon in Japan due to their connection with the Yakuza.
Additional Facts
- 99% of the onsens have separated by gender rooms. Only a few remain that host mixed-gender baths.
- Opposite gender children can usually accompany their parents in the bath
- Onsens offer private room bath rentals for those looking for more privacy.
- Many onsens have indoor and outdoor baths
The Expereince
The best way to tell you about an onsen experience is to share my own. Here is how it went!
After changing into my birthday suit, I proceeded to the bathhouse for my first onsen experience. The first bath (at Yuryo Onsen) was indoors and had a large window where you could see the surrounding nature outside. It was dark at this time so the trees were illuminated by the garden lights.
I had little time to soak in the beauty of the room as it still felt uncomfortable to be doing what I was. It took a few minutes to adjust, but pretty soon it feels normal.
After trying an indoor bath, I faced the courage to make my way to the outdoor section. The outdoor bathing area was stone-paved and each bath was designed differently. Some had mini waterfalls, others had stone backrests, and there were even some solo tubs. I hopped into one and felt the amazing warmth of the natural spring hit my body. The entire concept of what I was doing blew my mind. Here I was, outside in the secluded mountains, surrounded by trees, bathing under the bright moon.
What started as an uncomfortable experience turned into the most relaxing moment of the entire trip. I stayed in the bathhouse until the place closed down and I cherished every minute of that experience. It was by far the most peaceful hours of my entire trip.
Overall experience
After finishing your bath, you’ll feel as relaxed as one can be. Your skin will feel soft, your muscles rested and your mind calm. As you sit, staring at the moon, dipping your body in rejuvenating hot spring water, your mind will just go ahhhhhhh as it recharges.
This was hands down the best bath/shower of my entire life. The next time I return to Japan, I plan to do many more onsens. There truly is nothing else like it.
Pingback: Tokyo or Kyoto? A City Comparison Guide - Earth's Corner